Tags: Alghero, Antonio Marras, Eleonora d'Arborea, Kenzo, Rina De Liguoro, Sardegna, Sardinia, Tina Modotti
Antonio Marras’ clothing production does not exclude any expressive language that may combine and merge with his work. He often catches an openly artistic glimpse, or uses references to an experience in craftsmanship or to a purely intellectual one. The domain in which he moves and the matter that enables him to express his creativeness are exquisitely human. Each collection springs from the personal elaboration, re-framing and combination of elements that come to the surface again and again, and change. He is the creator of fashion products that are defined as “texts to read and to wear”, products that share the nature of tales, and have to do with his individual story and personality. He had his training (not only a professional one) mainly at Alghero, Sardinia, in the family store where Marras could experiment and work on finished items of clothing. His contributions and personal interpretations immediately enjoyed more success than the items on display. In 1987, a Roman firm asked him to design a few collections of ready-to-wear clothing. It was the combination of his intellectual qualities and technical competence that led him to the creation of the first collection that bears his name. In 1999 he made his debut in the field of the ready-to-wear. From the very start his attitude in the creation of collections was one of disruption, which led to a break with set conventions and to the recovery of forgotten style details. Unlike his break, disruption is in fact an active process that brings about a sudden, instantaneous flow of energy. A sort of induced short-circuit. His creative experience is dotted with collaborations, even if only intellectual ones, with extraordinary protagonists of the Sardinian and international scene. Such collaborations turned out to be temporary inspiration sources for segments of his creative activity, but also permanent ones. He has always had a great interest in the peculiar nature of popular cultures, starting from Sardinian culture ( and in particular the Catalonian culture in the area where he was born), but has always avoided the superficial aspects of folklore. His studies focus on Sardinian artists and cultural movements, and the world of women plays a primary role in his intellectual research. Heroines like Eleonora d’Arborea, travellers like Annemarie Schwarzenbach, film stars like Rina De Liguoro or photographers like Tina Modotti are only some of the protagonists of his “tales for clothing”. Also in his role of creative director of Kenzo maison, Marras can read the Japanese creator’s capacity to merge elements from different worlds, to use images and styles from distant countries, to turn them into something different through an item of clothing. Furthermore, Marras is a man who entirely belongs to his time. The public is a fundamental element in his ever changing creative activity. What already exists is endlessly re-structured and changed into something new which previously did not exist as such.