Giuraddio,
non ci avrei creduto mai,
senza la prova fisica, palpabile,
dei miei occhi...
Orazio (Amleto - William Shakespeare)
The mask used by the Eskimos with a horizontal split along the whole of the visual line, whether flat and made of horn or wood or bone, tied around the head; or more simply a hand across the forehead to protect the eyes from sunlight. That's what the first models of sunglasses were like!
In the fourteenth century hand-held glasses with a joint change with the arrival of the first bow-shaped models: glasses for the nose, items to wear. They become ‘for' the eyes with the addition of a shaped side-piece, up to the XVIII century when the side-pieces rest on the ears.
Glasses to show off, instruments of seduction, displayed at the theatre or along park pathways. At the end of the XIX century the first models for work protection or to ride a bicycle can be found in Harrod's catalogue.
Glasses become accessible to everyone!
Types, materials and shapes are ever new: they protect in chemistry and physics labs, ‘offend' according to the meaning attached to them in laying systems, or ‘defend' in the individual version of gas masks.
The extreme environments of hiking, explorations and expeditions, as well as the need for individual mobility satisfied by bicycles, motorcycles and cars widen the perspectives of optics. In the twentieth century glasses involve the cinema, fashion, art and the rich world of industrial design: glasses as instrument of innovation.
As the expression of a passion!
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Silhouette
Ocean Blue 2005
The Austrian Company established in 1964 by Arnold and Annelise Schmied has always produced top quality items and is a benchmark for those who consider eyeglasses not only as an instrument to correct sight imperfections, but as a basic component of a person's look.
The Company is once again outstanding for the new SPX Modern Art collection which combines formal elegance and innovative technical solutions. The model in the picture is from the new collection: its full rimmed frame realised in SPX and ß-rich titanium affords unexpected comfort and lightness. The titanium side-pieces are directly connected to the frame without any end pieces.
Nuances are obtained through three successive layers of colour and through a contrast line along the frame margins and the titanium side-pieces.
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Viu-In
Forte personalità
The recently established, Emilia-based company wisely blends formal research with careful technical and processing solutions, a combination that leads to a high capacity for expression, especially through the colours of acetate which takes on shades that only an air brush can achieve.
Technique, design, research and personality are here illustrated by two items:
- Model Mike, characterised by geometric, sharp lines, is made by carefully studying the cutting line of cellulose so as to emphasise layers of matter, here proposed in black and white.
- Line "Optiwork" models are characterised by the presence of acetate-soaked fabric in the frame, ranging from lace to bright colours, prints and concentric designs.
Each item is somehow personalised to bring about a touch of distinction: an effective image for the strong personality of those who wear the glasses.
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Costume National
Tribal Army
A new design proposal by Marcolin for Costume National Eyewear, sunglasses whose formal details give the item the features of an icon.
Their curved and smooth and pieces hinged to finely outlined, tulip-shaped side-pieces, achieve porcelain overtones through enamel-like processing.
Their central double bridge recalls the military models in Full Metal Jacket, yet what attracted us is the wrap-around features of model CN50S, harmonious forms that give the item a three-dimensional look.
A very fine piece of design indeed!
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Roberto Cavalli
Less is more?
To carve, eliminate, remove, then add, dare, exceed, transgress. The model by Roberto Cavalli we have chosen to illustrate is designed by Marcolin and expresses a project contradiction: to add where expressiveness is achieved by removing!
The sunglasses are rich in signs and symbols which are typical of the Florentine artist's production. What we really like is the hollow created by a ring-like snake in the side-pieces.
Is less more?
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IC! Berlin
an unconventional conception of a conventional object!
The collection of models by the German maison, established in 1997,that we found really intriguing and chose at a glance! Far from insignificant, their design expresses a very high technical competence through essential lines obtained by photo-engraving a 0.5 mm, flat, memory-endowed harmonic steel plate; the overall structure is very light (between 11 and 28 grams, depending on the model) and its end pieces are in anergic silicone.
A noteworthy detail is the joint without screws of the front and side pieces, which can easily be detached by gently pulling them apart. Lenses can likewise be easily changed.
When we saw the packaging...it was love at first sight!
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Harry Larry's
Piccoli accenti quotidiani
Among the great number of items that the French maison produces we have chosen a model that surpasses all others for its simple outline and rigorous design.
Piraty is an austere-looking model far removed both from the eccentricity that the name evokes and from the fable-like forms that characterise Harry Lary's collection.
On the side of both lenses a small simple accent is asymmetrically silhouetted to emphasise the front piece, with rectangular lenses softened by the curving bridge. The frame is in electroplated steel with acetate end pieces.
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Beryll
Design in limited edition
Beryll is a compound word from ‘beryl', a mineral used in the Middle Ages to correct sight imperfections, and ‘brille', the German for sunglasses.
A creation by Austrian designer Sigmar Bergauer, Beryll blends arcaic inspiration with visionary science fiction. All of Beryll models are edited in only 1,500 copies, outstanding items meant for an élite according to the policy that the Austrian maison has adopted since it was established in 1998.
The frames come either in nickel-free electroplated surgical steel, or in acetate and are enriched with the caption ‘hand-made' to emphasise that each model is in limited edition. |
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Romeo Gigli
Classe, misura, identità
Created by Allison design studio, model RGGI702 attracted our attention due to its wrap-around outline that enhances the volume of the face and to the nuances that enrich the frame and the lenses.
A model that expresses talented design and technical skill affecting both its colour overtones and the rigorous lines that interpret them. Formally characterised by a markedly curved front piece, the strong but balanced line of the side-pieces conveys a sense of strength and firmness.
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Exalt Cycle
frames and glamour
Sunglasses labelled Exalt-Cycle are designed by VidiVici, an Italian Company established in 1997. Select models Kaka and Pinha Colada are particularly beautiful and aroused our interest due to their high aesthetic qualities as well as to a style that makes them formally outstanding.
In model Pinha Colada, the essential outline of the curved lenses coincides with the structure to which the ear-pieces are hinged and brings about an elegant new form. Model Kaka has a balanced wraparound outline enriched with side lenses to protect the eyes even in blinding sunlight.
The refined materials create a High Tech language which expresses their originality.
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Parasite-Moi
oltre i confini uomo-macchina
This French brand consists of a team of young designers with different creative backgrounds who work under the guidance of creative designer Hugo Martin.
The models on show convey the precise idea underlying the whole of Parasite-moi's creations:'the boundaries between man and the machine have vanished, objects have a life of their own'. The double sidepieces embrace the head and cling above or below the temples, just to the area that doesn't ache, on both sides of the face. The design and a careful selection of materials (titanium, harmonic steel, anergic plastics) lead to comfortable glasses that fit the physical features of those who wear them.
Glasses with the power of redesigning the face by reinterpreting its traits. Glasses whose aesthetic qualities are much more meaningful than any trend.
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