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Celebrating the Iconic American Brand

blackfleecethumbBlack Fleece by Brooks Brothers debutta nell’autunno del 2007 come capsule collection per uomo e donna del leggendario marchio d’abbigliamento americano. A disegnare la collezione sin dall’inizio è il talento visionario di Thom Browne, premiato come stilista maschile dell’anno nel 2006 con il rinomato CFDA e finalista dello Smithsonian Cooper Hewitt National Designer Award, distintosi per il suo approccio provocatorio nella reinterpretazione dello stile degli Anni ‘50. Nel creare Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers lo stilista americano ha potuto attingere al patrimonio e alla tradizione della casa del “golden fleece”, unendo il massimo splendore della sensibilità classica americana con nuove e caratteristiche silhouettes: giacche corte dai revers stretti e maniche sopra al polso, calzoni maschili dal taglio tradizionale con risvolto evidenti ma tagliati al polpaccio. Anno dopo anno Thom Browne ha celebrato le principali innovazioni stilistiche di Brooks Brothers, recuperando dagli archivi storici capi come la Sack Suit, la Eaton Jacket, il cappotto Chesterfield, i motivi regimental delle cravatte e i tessuti madras e seersucker.
Per la collezione Autunnale 2011 l’ispirazione è da ritrovarsi nel tradizionale abbigliamento da caccia cui lo stilista ha aggiunto nuovi tagli e forme per uomo e donna. I tessuti principalmente usati sono il cavalry twill e il cashmere insieme alle classiche
Shetland e al tweed. L’uomo veste plaid marrone scuro, abbinati a dolcevita di lana marrone intrecciata e Norwalk senza maniche in tweed grigio per un look meno formale. La donna invece è ingentilita da gonne a vita alta con piccole pieghe, nelle tonalità del grigio e del marrone, abbinate a cappotti di lana bianca con colli in agnello persiano che nascondono i tradizionali cardigan e le gonne dritte. Ancora una volta Black Fleece si conferma il terreno fertile sul quale Brooks Brothers esplora nuovi percorsi stilistici, restando sempre fedele all’essenza della propria tradizione.

Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers, the legendary American clothing brand, made its debut in autumn 2007 as a men’s-women’s capsule collection. The whole collection was designed by talented, visionary Thom Browne, who was awarded the prestigious CFDA in 2006
as men’s fashion designer, and made it to the finals of the Smithsonian Cooper Hewitt National Designer Award for his brilliant provocative approach to the reinterpretation of the fashion style of the 1950’s. To create Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers the American designer could draw on the heritage and tradition of the “golden fleece” maison to combine the great splendour of American classic sensibility with new characteristic silhouettes: short jackets with narrow lapels and bracelet sleeves, the traditional style of men’s trousers cut at the calf with high turn-ups. Year after year Thom Browne has celebrated Brooks Brothers’ main stylistic innovations by re-editing from the brand’s historical archives items like the Sack Suit, the Eaton Jacket, the Chesterfield coat, the regimental patterns of ties as well as fabrics like madras and seersucker.

For the Fall 2011 the designer has drawn inspiration from traditional hunting clothing which he has enriched with new men’s and women’s cuts and forms. The items mostly come in fabrics like cavalry twill, cashmere, tweed and the classic Shetland. Men wear dark brown plaid with turtle-neck sweaters in plaited brown wool and sleeveless Norwalk in grey tweed for a more casual look. Women’s silhouettes are refined by high-waist skirts with small pleats that come in shades of grey and brown, and are coupled with white wool coats with Persian lamb collars that conceal the traditional cardigans and straight skirts.
Black Fleece has once more proved to be the fertile ground for Brooks Brothers’ research in fashion style while keeping true to the essence of its own tradition.

blackfleece.com